Bao Fitzrovia

Bao started out as a street-food stall, famed for its gua bao (tiny, Taiwanese-style steamed milk buns that were gone in a couple of bites). That was followed by a dinky Soho restaurant that got even the critics waiting in line. While it’s still a cult address, our go-to is Fitzrovia, takes reservations and has the best signature dish (the inky-black cod bao). You’ll walk into an airy, stripped-back space, with stools around a U-shaped bar, where waiters dressed in crisp, lab-style white coats will hand you a tick-box menu and a pencil. Our advice? Don’t panic-order all at once: you can—and should—add more dishes later.